South Korea · Sweet finish

Yakgwa

Flower shaped honey and ginger cookies soaked in syrup

Little flower shaped cookies of flour, sesame oil, honey and ginger, fried slowly until golden and layered, then steeped in a ginger and cinnamon syrup until glossy, soft and chewy.

Yakgwa

Yakgwa is one of Korea's oldest sweets, and its name means medicine confection, because honey was once regarded as a medicine. A dough of wheat flour, sesame oil, honey, rice wine and ginger is fried slowly in oil, then soaked in a spiced syrup until it drinks it up. The result is somewhere between a cookie and a doughnut: flaky and layered inside, sticky and shining outside, and fragrant with ginger, cinnamon and sesame.

Its roots go back more than a thousand years to the Buddhist ceremonies of the Silla period, and through the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties it was a luxury, since honey, wheat and oil were costly and confections like this were largely for the wealthy. Over the centuries it lost its early bird and animal shapes and settled into the flower with a rippled edge, which stacks neatly on a ceremonial table. It is still part of ancestral rites, harvest festival, weddings and big birthdays, and it is often given in pretty boxes as a holiday gift, though these days it is just as likely to be eaten with an afternoon coffee, which is a respectable retirement for a former court luxury.

The technique has two secrets: barely work the dough, so it stays layered and tender, and fry it at a surprisingly low temperature so it cooks through and opens up without burning. Then comes the hard part, which is leaving it in the syrup overnight.

The ginger syrup (jipcheong)

Ingredients

The dough

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Frying and soaking

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