Soju is Korea's clear spirit, distilled since the thirteenth century, when the technique arrived with the Mongols, and today the most widely drunk spirit in the country, usually bottled at around 16 to 20 percent alcohol. It comes with its own etiquette: the youngest at the table pours for the elders, with two hands, and you never fill your own glass. Subak means watermelon, and subak soju is the party version: watermelon flesh blended and strained, mixed with soju and a splash of soda, and served in the hollowed out melon itself.

It is sweet, cold, pink and dangerously easy to drink, which is a pleasant combination at a summer gathering and a reason to keep the measures sensible. The melon bowl is the showpiece, and nothing is wasted. The zero proof version, which children and designated drivers will claim with equal enthusiasm, is the first variation.

The watermelon bowl and juice

Ingredients

• 1 mini seedless watermelon

Method

1. Cut a very thin slice from the bottom of the melon so it stands flat without wobbling, taking care not to cut through the rind into the flesh.
2. Cut off the top 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) to make a lid.
3. Scoop the flesh into the blender with the spoon, leaving about 1/2 inch (1 cm) of red flesh inside the rind so the bowl stays strong. Scoop a dozen neat balls or cubes into a separate bowl for garnish first, if you like. Chill the empty melon.
4. Blend for 30 to 60 seconds until smooth. Pour through the sieve into the large bowl, pressing gently with the spoon.

The punch

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) chilled soju
• 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) chilled lemon lime soda
• 2 tablespoons lime juice
• 2 cups ice cubes
• 6 sprigs fresh mint

Method

1. In the pitcher, stir together the watermelon juice, soju and lime juice. Add the soda last and stir gently once, so it keeps its fizz.
2. Put the ice and melon balls into the chilled watermelon bowl and pour in as much punch as it will hold; keep the rest in the pitcher in the fridge to top up. Add the mint.

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