Pa means scallion and jeon means a savory pancake, and in pajeon the scallions are not a garnish but the frame: long green stalks laid side by side in the pan, held together by just enough batter to make a pancake. Add seafood and it becomes haemul pajeon, haemul meaning things from the sea. It has a famous habit of appearing whenever it rains, and when it does, a bowl of makgeolli, the milky rice wine, is never far away. Few countries have a dish so firmly linked to the weather forecast.

The best known regional version is Dongnae pajeon, named for the old fortress town of Dongnae that now lies within the city of Busan, on the southeast coast. It grew famous through the Dongnae market and is made with a rice flour batter and plenty of seafood. This home version keeps the spirit and uses ordinary flour lightened with rice flour and very cold water for a crisp, lacy finish. It is quick, cheap and forgiving, and as good an excuse as any to hope for a wet race weekend.

Dipping sauce

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) soy sauce
• 1 1/2 tablespoons (22 ml) rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) water
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon gochugaru
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion or scallion

Method

1. Stir all the ingredients together in the small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Leave it to stand while you make the pancakes so the flavors blend.

The pancakes

Ingredients

• 1 cup (125 g) all purpose flour
• 1/4 cup (40 g) rice flour
• 3/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 cup (240 ml) ice cold water
• 1 large egg
• 2 bunches (about 12 to 14) scallions
• 8 oz (225 g) mixed raw seafood
• 1 fresh red chili
• 6 to 8 tablespoons (90 to 120 ml) neutral oil

Method

1. In a mixing bowl, whisk the flour, rice flour, salt and garlic powder. Pour in the ice cold water and whisk just until smooth; a few small lumps are fine. Do not overmix. Keep the bowl in the fridge until you need it.
2. Set the skillet over medium high heat and add 3 tablespoons of the oil. Swirl it so it covers the whole base and runs up the sides a little. Heat for about 2 minutes.
3. Dip half the scallions into the batter, lift them out and lay them side by side in the hot pan, all facing the same way, to make a rough circle or square. Spoon just enough batter over them to fill the gaps, about 1/2 cup (120 ml).
4. Scatter half the seafood and half the chili evenly over the top and press them gently into the batter with the spatula. Drizzle a few more spoonfuls of batter over the seafood to glue it in place, then drizzle half the beaten egg over the surface. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes without moving it.
5. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of oil around the edge of the pancake. Slide the spatula underneath to check it moves freely, then turn it over in one confident motion. If you are nervous, slide it onto the flat plate, put the skillet upside down over it and turn the whole thing over together, using oven mitts.
6. Press the pancake down firmly with the spatula so the seafood cooks against the pan. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, adding another tablespoon of oil around the edge if the pan looks dry. Shrimp is cooked when it is pink and opaque all through, 145°F (63°C).
7. Flip once more for 30 seconds to recrisp the first side, then slide the pancake onto the wire rack set on the baking sheet and keep it in a 200°F (95°C) oven. Wipe the pan, add the rest of the oil and make the second pancake in the same way.
8. Slide each pancake onto the cutting board and cut into squares or wedges with a sharp knife or kitchen scissors.

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