South Korea · Trackside classic

Dakgangjeong

Crisp double fried chicken bites in a sticky sweet chili glaze

Bite size pieces of chicken thigh coated in potato starch, fried twice until shatteringly crisp, then tossed in a glossy glaze of gochujang, soy, honey and garlic and showered with sesame seeds.

Dakgangjeong

Korea takes fried chicken more seriously than almost anywhere on earth. The modern craze began in the 1970s, when cooking oil became widely available, and the pairing of fried chicken with cold draft beer became so central to the national evening that it earned its own word: chimaek, from chikin and maekju, the Korean for beer. Today the country has tens of thousands of chicken restaurants, a figure that makes more sense once you have tasted the result.

Dakgangjeong is the market stall branch of the family. The name borrows from gangjeong, an old Korean confection of fried dough coated in sticky syrup, and the method is the same idea applied to chicken: small pieces fried until crisp, then tossed in a sweet, gently spicy glaze that clings like lacquer. It is sold by the cupful in traditional markets across the country, sometimes from stalls with queues that would impress a pit lane, and it is designed to be eaten with a toothpick while walking. Unlike its cousin yangnyeom chicken, which is usually bone in and saucy, dakgangjeong stays crisp under its glaze for a surprisingly long time.

The secrets are potato starch, which gives a thin, glassy crust, and frying twice: once to cook the chicken, once to drive out the last moisture and make the coating crackle. It is a project for a weekend rather than a weeknight, and it is exactly the right food for a race.

The chicken

Ingredients

The glaze

Ingredients

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