South Africa · Trackside classic

Vetkoek

Fried bread rolls split and filled with curried mince

Golden, fluffy balls of fried yeast dough, crisp outside and soft as a cloud within, split open and stuffed with a mild, fruity beef curry.

Vetkoek

Vetkoek means fat cake in Afrikaans, a name that is honest about the method if not about the result, which is surprisingly light: a simple yeast dough, shaped into balls and fried until golden and puffed. The dish is thought to have come inland with the Voortrekkers, the Dutch speaking settlers who crossed into the interior in the 1830s and needed bread that could be made without an oven. Today it is sold everywhere from street stalls and family takeaways to the hawkers at taxi ranks, and in isiXhosa and isiZulu it goes by igwinya and amagwinya.

The fillings are where the country's tastes show. Savory fans split them and stuff them with curried mince, polony or grated cheese; sweet fans spread them with jam or syrup. Curried mince is the classic, and it turns a vetkoek into a complete lunch that can be held in one hand, which is precisely what is needed when the cars are coming round at Kyalami.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the flour, yeast, sugar and salt together in the large bowl. Pour in the warm water and oil and mix with your hand or a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms. If there is dry flour left in the bowl, add more water a tablespoon at a time.
  2. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter and knead for 8 to 10 minutes: push it away with the heel of your hand, fold it back toward you, turn it a quarter turn and repeat. Add only a little flour if it sticks badly; a soft dough makes light vetkoek.
  3. Put the dough back in the bowl, cover with the towel and leave in a warm spot for 1 hour, or longer on a cold day.
  4. Knock the dough back by pressing it down, then divide it into 12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball by cupping it under your palm and moving your hand in small circles on the counter. Set them on the floured baking sheet, well apart, cover and leave for 20 to 30 minutes.

The curry mince

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oil in the large frying pan over medium heat. Cook the onion for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring, then add the garlic, ginger, curry powder and turmeric and stir for 1 minute.
  2. Turn the heat to medium high, add the ground beef and break it up with the wooden spoon into small crumbs. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring, until no pink remains.
  3. Add the grated carrot, grated tomato, chutney, water and salt. Stir, turn the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring now and then. Add the peas for the last 3 minutes. Taste for salt.

Frying and filling

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the oil into the deep saucepan to a depth of about 3 inches (7.5 cm). Clip on the thermometer and heat over medium heat to 325°F (165°C). This is cooler than for most frying, so the dough cooks right through before the outside darkens.
  2. Gently lower 3 or 4 balls into the oil, smooth side down. Fry for 4 to 5 minutes until the underside is golden, then turn them with the slotted spoon and fry for 4 to 5 minutes more. Adjust the heat to keep the oil near 325°F (165°C).
  3. Lift them onto the rack or paper towels. Break open the first one to check: if the middle is doughy, fry the next batch a minute longer on each side at a slightly lower heat.
  4. While still warm, cut each vetkoek open across the top with the serrated knife, without cutting all the way through, like a pocket. Spoon in 2 to 3 tablespoons of hot curry mince.

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