South Africa · Sweet finish

Hertzoggies

Apricot jam tartlets with coconut meringue

Little crisp butter pastry cups with a spoonful of apricot jam, domed with a chewy, golden coconut meringue: the teatime classic of South African bake sales.

Hertzoggies

Few teatime treats carry as much political baggage as a hertzoggie. These small tartlets, a crisp pastry case with a spoonful of apricot jam under a golden cap of coconut meringue, are named after General J.B.M. Hertzog, Prime Minister of South Africa from 1924 to 1939. Exactly why is disputed. One version says they were simply his favorite; another that his supporters baked them for his election meetings; a third, from the Cape Malay community, tells of women who baked them in his honor while he promised them the vote, and then devised a less flattering sister when he delivered only part of what he had promised. Supporters of his rival Jan Smuts, meanwhile, are said to have answered with a tartlet of their own.

The politics have faded and the tartlets have not. They remain a fixture of church fêtes, school bake sales and family tea tables across the country, usually made by the tray, as they are far too easy to eat one after another. The method is simple, three components and no special skills, and the result is a lesson in balance: buttery, tart and sweet, crisp and chewy. Whatever their origin, they are the rare thing in politics that everyone can agree on.

The pastry cases

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The jam

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The coconut meringue

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