Singapore · Sweet finish

Kaya toast

Toast with coconut jam and soft eggs

Crisp, thin toast sandwiching cold butter and silky homemade pandan coconut jam, with wobbly soft eggs and a dash of soy on the side.

Kaya toast

Kaya is a jam of coconut, eggs and sugar, stirred slowly until it turns thick and glossy, often perfumed with pandan leaf. Spread on thin toast with a slab of cold butter, it became the signature of the Hainanese coffee shops that opened across Singapore in the last century. The set comes with two very soft eggs, cracked into a saucer and seasoned with soy and white pepper, which sounds unusual and tastes inevitable.

It is a breakfast, an afternoon snack and, in our view, a perfectly respectable dessert. After a long race night, there are few better ways to close the meal than with something sweet, warm and slightly ridiculous in its simplicity.

Pandan kaya

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cut 4 of the pandan leaves into short pieces and blend them with 3 tablespoons of the coconut cream until pulpy. Press the mixture through the sieve into a bowl with the back of a spoon, then stir in the rest of the coconut cream. Tie the remaining 2 leaves into a knot.
  2. In the heatproof bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks, sugar and salt for about 1 minute, until the sugar mostly dissolves. Whisk in the pandan coconut cream. If you are using extract, add it now. Strain through the sieve back into the bowl to remove any stringy bits of egg.
  3. Bring 2 inches (5 cm) of water to a gentle simmer in the saucepan. Set the bowl on top, making sure its base does not touch the water. Drop in the pandan knot.
  4. Stir constantly with the spatula, scraping the bottom and sides, for 35 to 45 minutes. Keep the water at a gentle simmer. It will stay thin for a long time, then begin to thicken quickly. If you see any lumps forming, lift the bowl off the heat and whisk hard.
  5. Remove the pandan knot. If there are any lumps, blend the kaya for 10 seconds or push it through the sieve. Spoon it into the jar and let it cool, then refrigerate. It thickens more as it chills.

The toast

Ingredients

Method

  1. Toast the bread until golden and crisp on both sides.
  2. Cut off the crusts. Holding each hot slice flat with your palm, slide the bread knife horizontally through the middle to split it into two thin slices, each with one toasted side. Go slowly; the toast is fragile.
  3. Spread the soft side of half the slices thickly with kaya. Lay thin slabs of cold butter, about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick, on top. Close with the remaining slices, soft side in, and cut each sandwich in half.

Soft eggs

Ingredients

Method

  1. Boil enough water to cover the eggs by 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the small saucepan. Turn off the heat completely.
  2. Lower the eggs into the hot water with a spoon, cover the pan and leave it off the heat for 7 minutes. For anyone who should not eat runny eggs, simmer them over low heat for 10 minutes instead.
  3. Crack each egg into a small bowl or saucer, scooping out any white clinging to the shell. Season with a few drops of dark soy and a pinch of white pepper.

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