Singapore · Regional favorite

Fish head curry

Snapper in tangy tamarind and okra curry

A tangy, tamarind sharp South Indian curry with okra and eggplant, simmered around a whole snapper head, or thick fish steaks for the less adventurous.

Fish head curry

Fish head curry is a Singapore invention. The usual story credits an Indian cook from Kerala who, in the years after the war, noticed that his Chinese customers treasured the fish head as a delicacy and built a South Indian curry around it. The dish has been a fixture of Race Course Road in Little India ever since, served on banana leaves to tables that argue happily over the cheeks.

The gravy is sour with tamarind, warm with curry spices and softened with a little coconut, and the vegetables drink it up. If a whole head is a step too far for your guests, thick fish steaks give you the same gravy with fewer stares.

The curry gravy

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the fish curry powder and the 1/3 cup water together in a small bowl until smooth. Wetting the powder stops it from burning in the hot oil.
  2. Heat the oil in the wide pot over medium heat. Add the mustard and fenugreek seeds. Cover loosely for a moment if they jump.
  3. Add the curry leaves (stand back, they spit), then the onion. Cook, stirring, for 6 to 8 minutes.
  4. Add the garlic and ginger and stir for 1 minute, then add the spice paste. Fry, stirring constantly, for 4 to 5 minutes.
  5. Add the tomatoes and stir for 2 minutes, then pour in the tamarind water. Add the salt and sugar and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes.

The fish and vegetables

Ingredients

Method

  1. Add the eggplant to the simmering gravy and cook for 5 minutes.
  2. Lay the fish head halves or chunks in the gravy and spoon some over the top. Add the okra and green chilies. Cover and simmer gently: 15 to 18 minutes for a head, 8 to 10 minutes for steaks or chunks. Do not stir hard, or the fish will fall apart; tilt the pan and baste instead.
  3. Pour in the coconut milk, swirl the pan gently and simmer 2 minutes more. Taste and add salt or a pinch of sugar.

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