Singapore · Trackside classic

Char kway teow

Smoky stir fried flat rice noodles

Flat rice noodles seared in a very hot pan with prawns, sweet sausage, egg and dark soy until smoky, glossy and impossible to stop eating.

Char kway teow

Char kway teow means, plainly, stir fried rice cake strips, and it began as cheap, filling fuel for laborers before becoming one of the most loved plates in every hawker center. The Singapore style is darker and sweeter than its Malaysian cousin, thanks to a generous pour of sweet black soy sauce. Hawkers prize the faint smoky char they call wok hei, the breath of the wok.

It is quick, it is greasy in the best sense, and it is a dish people eat after midnight, which makes it ideal for a night race. A home stove cannot match a hawker's roaring burner, so the method below cooks in small batches to keep the pan screaming hot.

The sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the kecap manis, dark soy, light soy, fish sauce and sambal together in a small bowl. Divide it into two equal portions, one for each batch.

The noodles

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the wok over your highest heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of lard or oil and swirl it around.
  2. Add half the garlic, half the sausage, half the shrimp and half the fish cake. Stir fry, tossing and scraping with the spatula, for about 1 1/2 minutes.
  3. Add half the noodles and spread them out. Pour over one portion of sauce. Now toss and flip every 15 to 20 seconds, letting the noodles sit in between so they touch the hot metal and char slightly, for about 2 minutes. Lift gently from underneath; stirring hard breaks the noodles.
  4. Push the noodles to one side. Crack 2 eggs into the empty space, wait 20 seconds until they start to set at the edges, then break them up and fold the noodles over them. Toss for 30 seconds.
  5. Add half the cockles, half the bean sprouts and half the chives. Toss for 30 to 45 seconds only, then tip onto a plate.
  6. Wipe the pan out with a paper towel if anything has burned, reheat it until smoking, and repeat with the rest of the ingredients.

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