Saudi Arabia · Trackside classic

Tamees

Round sesame flatbread with ghee, the Hijazi breakfast loaf

A big round flatbread, docked all over so it bakes crisp in the middle and puffy at the rim, brushed with ghee and scattered with sesame and black seeds: the loaf that every Saudi breakfast of ful is scooped up with.

Tamees

Tamees is the morning bread of Saudi Arabia's cities. It began in the province of Mecca, where centuries of pilgrims brought their own baking traditions with them, and in Medina it is credited to Afghan and Bukharan families who settled there; the bread is a close cousin of the round naan of Afghanistan. From the Hijaz it spread to Riyadh and beyond, and today the small bakeries that make it sit right beside the shops selling ful and lentils, turning out loaves every couple of minutes from a clay tannour oven.

The dough is slapped against the hot clay wall, puffs within seconds and comes out with a crisp, freckled center and a soft, airy rim, ready to be torn and dragged through a bowl of beans. For decades a loaf cost a single riyal, a price so fixed in daily life that it found its way into poetry; in 2026 rising costs finally nudged it up, which tells you how central the bread is to the national breakfast.

A home oven cannot quite match a clay wall at full roar, but a very hot baking stone or upturned sheet pan gets you remarkably close. Make it with Saudi ful, with honey and cream, or simply with good butter, and eat it standing at the counter, as it deserves.

The dough

Ingredients

Shaping, topping and baking

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Honey and cream topping (optional)

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