Saudi Arabia · Regional favorite

Mahshoosh

Jazan Eid lamb, chopped small and slow cooked in its own fat with warm spices

Lamb and lamb fat chopped into small pieces and cooked low and slow with black pepper, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric and cardamom until the meat is tender, browned and glossy, the Eid al Adha dish of Jazan in the far southwest.

Mahshoosh

In Jazan, the green, humid corner of Saudi Arabia that runs down the Red Sea toward Yemen, Eid al Adha has its own particular sound: the steady knock of knives as whole families sit together and chop the meat and fat of the holiday animal into small pieces. That chopping is called al hash, and it gives the dish its name. The fat is melted first, the meat goes in by the handful, the spices are layered on top, and the pot is left to bubble gently for hours.

Mahshoosh was born of necessity long before anyone in the region owned a refrigerator. Sealed under its own fat in clay jars, the cooked meat would keep for weeks, even months, and a spoonful could be warmed for a meal long after the feast. Refrigeration has made that preservation a matter of tradition rather than survival, but the dish has stayed on the Eid table in Jazan and across the Tihama coast because nothing else tastes quite like it: rich, peppery, fragrant with cinnamon and cardamom, every piece of meat lacquered in spiced fat.

Our version is scaled down for a home kitchen and a single weekend, using a lamb shoulder and a little extra lamb fat, and it is meant to be eaten within a few days rather than stored for a season. The chopping is still the heart of it, so put on the race build up, sharpen your knife and enlist help.

The spice mix

Ingredients

The mahshoosh

Ingredients

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