Kibda is simply the Arabic word for liver, and in the Hijaz, the western region of Mecca, Medina and Jeddah, it also names one of the great late night plates. Lamb liver is cut into strips, tossed with cumin and other warm spices, and thrown into a very hot pan with onion and green chili so it browns in a couple of minutes rather than stewing in its own juices. It arrives sizzling, sharpened with lemon, with flatbread for scooping and a little fresh tomato on the side.

In Jeddah it is above all a Ramadan dish. When the holy month begins, kibda stalls appear in open yards across the city, many run by young Saudis, and they cook from the evening prayer until the small hours, sliding each pan straight from the flame to the table. It is fast, thrifty food with real character, and it rewards the cook who keeps the heat high and the nerve steady, which is roughly the brief for a street circuit as well.

The spiced liver

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lb (680 g) lamb liver
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 4 tablespoons (60 ml) neutral vegetable oil
• 2 medium yellow onions
• 4 garlic cloves
• 2 or 3 fresh green chilies
• 1 small green bell pepper
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) butter
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) fresh lemon juice
• a small handful fresh cilantro

Method

1. Lay the liver on the cutting board. Peel away the thin shiny skin on the outside by lifting an edge with the tip of the knife and pulling it gently with your fingers. Cut out any white tubes or tough patches. Slice the liver into strips about 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick and 2 inches (5 cm) long, keeping them as even as you can so they cook at the same speed.
2. Spread the strips on a double layer of paper towels and press more towels on top to soak up the surface juice. Put them in the mixing bowl, sprinkle over the cumin, coriander, paprika, turmeric and black pepper, and toss with your hands or a spoon until every strip is coated. Leave them for 10 minutes while you prepare the onions. Do not add salt yet.
3. Set the skillet over medium high heat and add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When it shimmers, add the onions and cook, stirring every minute or so, for 7 to 8 minutes. Lift them onto the plate and leave the oil that remains in the pan.
4. Turn the heat to high and add 1 tablespoon of the oil. Wait until it is very hot, then add half the liver in a single layer, strips not touching. Leave it completely alone for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, then turn each strip with the spatula or tongs and cook the second side for 1 1/2 minutes. Lift the batch onto the plate with the onions.
5. Add the last tablespoon of oil to the pan, let it heat for 30 seconds, and cook the rest of the liver exactly the same way.
6. Return all the liver and the onions to the pan, with any juice on the plate. Add the garlic, green chilies and bell pepper and toss everything together over high heat for 2 minutes, keeping it moving so the garlic does not burn.
7. Take out the thickest strip you can find and cut it in half on the board. Push the thermometer into the center of another thick piece. If there is any pink, or it reads below 160°F (71°C), toss everything over the heat for 1 more minute and check again.
8. Take the pan off the heat. Scatter over the salt, add the butter and let it melt, then pour in the lemon juice and toss well. Taste a piece and add more salt or lemon if you like. Scatter with the cilantro.

Bread and fresh tomato

Ingredients

• 2 large or 4 small tamees or other thick flatbreads
• 3 ripe medium tomatoes
• 1/2 small red onion
• 1 pinch fine salt
• 1 lemon
• to serve hot chili sauce

Method

1. Before you start cooking the liver, cut the tomatoes into wedges or thick slices and lay them on a small plate with the red onion. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and set them aside at room temperature.
2. Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C) while the onions fry. Sprinkle the breads with a few drops of water, set them on the baking sheet and warm them for 4 to 6 minutes, so they come out just as the liver is ready. Tear them into large pieces.

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