In the Hejaz, balila means boiled chickpeas served warm in a cup or bowl with a little of their cooking broth, seasoned with cumin, salt and lemon, and finished at the cart with chopped pickles, tomato, onion, herbs and a splash of chili sauce or vinegar. It is sold in the evenings from carts on Jeddah's streets and in the old town of Al Balad, and in Ramadan, when the carts multiply along Qabil Street, it becomes one of the defining tastes of the month. The name is used elsewhere in the Arab world for chickpea and bean dishes, but this tangy, topped version is distinctly Hejazi.

It is cheap, vegan, warming and quick, and it is endlessly adjustable at the table. In other words, it is the perfect thing to have on the stove when a crowd gathers for a race on the Corniche.

The chickpeas

Ingredients

• 3 cans (15 oz / 425 g each) chickpeas
• 2 cups (480 ml) water
• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) lemon juice

Method

1. Toast the cumin seeds in the dry skillet over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, shaking the pan, then grind or crush them.
2. Tip the chickpeas with their liquid into the saucepan, add the water, half the cumin, the salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 15 minutes.
3. Stir in the lemon juice and taste for salt.

The toppings

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (75 g) mixed pickles
• 1 medium tomato
• 1/2 small red onion
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley or cilantro
• 1 green chili
• to serve hot chili sauce
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) white vinegar or pickle brine
• 1 lemon

Method

1. Put each topping in its own small bowl.
2. Ladle chickpeas and some broth into cups. Sprinkle with the remaining cumin and let each person add pickles, tomato, onion, herbs, chili, a splash of vinegar and a squeeze of lemon.

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