San Marino · Sweet finish

Zuppa di ciliegie

Cherries stewed in sweet red wine over toasted bread

Dark cherries simmered in red wine with sugar, cinnamon and lemon, spooned warm over butter toasted white bread so the syrup soaks in.

Zuppa di ciliegie

Zuppa di ciliegie is one of the sweets that descriptions of Sammarinese food name again and again: cherries stewed in sweetened red wine and served over white bread. Zuppa here means not soup in the modern sense but the older Italian idea of bread soaked in something good, and that is exactly the pleasure of it, a slice of toast that drinks up a ruby syrup until it is soft in the middle and still crisp at the edges. Cherry and red wine soups are cooked elsewhere in Italy too, often scented with cinnamon and lemon, and San Marino, which makes its own Sangiovese on the slopes below Monte Titano, has made the pairing its own.

It takes twenty minutes, uses a single pan and looks far grander than the effort involved, a ratio every host should treasure. Make it in early summer when cherries are cheap and plentiful, or with frozen ones any time a race weekend needs a quick dessert.

The cherries in red wine

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the wine, sugar, cinnamon stick, cloves and lemon peel in the wide saucepan. Set over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves, then let it bubble gently for 6 to 8 minutes.
  2. Add the pitted cherries and stir so they are coated. Keep the heat at a gentle simmer and cook for 5 to 6 minutes (8 to 10 if frozen), stirring once or twice. Do not boil hard, or the cherries will collapse.
  3. Stir the cornstarch mixture once more, pour it into the pan and stir constantly for 1 minute while it bubbles. Take the pan off the heat and lift out the cinnamon stick, cloves and lemon peel with a spoon.

The toasted bread

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the cherries simmer, melt the butter in the large frying pan over medium heat. When it stops foaming, lay in the bread slices and toast them for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, pressing them gently with a spatula. Sprinkle a little sugar over the top side in the last minute if you like.
  2. Put a slice of toast in each shallow bowl. Spoon the warm cherries and plenty of syrup over the top, letting the syrup run down and pool around the bread. Leave for 2 to 3 minutes before serving.

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