San Marino · Sweet finish

Pagnotta pasquale

Easter sweet bread with raisins and anise

A round, golden, gently sweet Easter loaf, soft as brioche but less rich, studded with plump raisins and scented with anise seed and lemon, its top scored with a cross.

Pagnotta pasquale

At Easter, San Marino bakes the pagnotta: a round, domed loaf of enriched dough with raisins and anise, its top scored with a cross and glazed to a deep shine. The republic's tourist office lists it among the traditional sweets of the local calendar, and the neighboring Romagna hills, where it is said to have started around Sarsina, bake it too. It is only lightly sweet, which is the point, because it goes on the Easter breakfast table alongside hard boiled eggs and salami as readily as next to coffee.

Anise is a familiar taste in San Marino, the flavor of the local mistrà liqueur, and in this bread whole seeds give little bursts of licorice warmth against the sweet raisins. A splash of anise liqueur to soak the raisins doubles the effect. The dough asks for time more than skill: two rises, a gentle shaping and a patient bake.

The San Marino Grand Prix was a spring race at Imola, often within a few weeks of Easter, so for a quarter of a century this bread and a race weekend shared the season. Toasted and buttered, it makes a fine breakfast before the lights go out.

The dough

Ingredients

Shaping, glazing and baking

Ingredients

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