San Marino · Regional favorite

Cappelletti in brodo

Little hat pasta filled with cheese and capon in clear capon broth

Thin egg pasta folded into little hats around a soft filling of ricotta, Parmesan, capon and lemon zest, simmered in a golden broth that has been murmuring on the stove for three hours.

Cappelletti in brodo

In San Marino, Christmas Day lunch begins with cappelletti in brodo. The night before belongs to pasta e ceci, a meatless supper for Christmas Eve; the next day the broth pot comes out, usually made with a capon, and the table fills with small pasta 'hats' floating in it. Cappelletti are made all across Romagna, Emilia and the Marche, and every valley adjusts the filling. On the Romagna side, which includes the hills around Monte Titano, the filling leans on soft cheese, scented with nutmeg and lemon zest and often enriched with a little meat.

The shape takes its name from cappello, a hat: a small square of pasta folded into a triangle and wrapped around a fingertip so the two corners meet. A few hundred of them are needed for a family table, which is why they are best made with company and a little conversation. The capon itself, gently poached, can follow the soup as a second course, so nothing goes to waste.

The San Marino Grand Prix was always a spring race at Imola, so this is not a race day dish in the calendar sense. It is, however, the dish that tells you most about how the republic eats, and it rewards a slow, cold weekend with the television on.

The capon broth

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The filling

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The pasta and shaping

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Cooking and serving

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