Romanians call sarmale their national dish and then argue, cheerfully and for hours, about how to make it. The constants are these: sour pickled cabbage leaves, a filling of minced pork with rice, onion and herbs, a few pieces of smoked bacon tucked between the layers, and a long, slow cook until the cabbage turns silky and the whole pot smells of smoke and thyme. They are served with mămăligă, the golden cornmeal porridge, a bowl of sour cream and, for the brave, a hot pepper on the side.

They appear at Christmas, at Easter, at weddings and at every large family gathering, because one pot feeds a crowd and the rolls taste better on the second day, and better still on the third. Romania has yet to hold a Grand Prix, but it knows a thing or two about long weekends with a full table, and a pot of sarmale is how they begin.

The filling

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) sunflower oil
• 2 medium onions
• 1/2 cup (100 g) short grain rice
• 2 lb (900 g) ground pork
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 3 tablespoons fresh dill
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper

Method

1. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often. Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes, then stir in the tomato paste and paprika for 30 seconds. Take off the heat and let it cool for 10 minutes.
2. Put the pork in the large bowl with the cooled onion and rice, the thyme, dill, salt and pepper. Mix well with your hands for 1 to 2 minutes. Fry a teaspoon of the mixture in the skillet to taste the seasoning, and adjust.

Rolling and baking

Ingredients

• 1 head, about 3 lb (1.4 kg) sour cabbage leaves
• 2 cups (about 300 g) sauerkraut
• 8 oz (225 g) thick cut smoked bacon
• 1 cup (240 ml) tomato passata or puree
• 2 cups (480 ml) water
• 3 bay leaves
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme

Method

1. Separate the cabbage leaves carefully. Rinse them in the bowl of cold water and drain. With the knife, shave the thick central rib flat on the back of each large leaf so it rolls easily. Cut the largest leaves in half along the rib. Chop any torn or tiny leaves and add them to the sauerkraut.
2. Lay a leaf flat with the rib end toward you. Put a heaped tablespoon of filling, about 1 1/2 oz (40 g), near that end. Fold the bottom over the filling, fold in both sides, then roll it away from you into a snug little cylinder. Push the loose end in with your finger if needed. Repeat until the filling is used.
3. Spread half the sauerkraut over the bottom of the pot. Arrange the rolls on top, seam side down, packed tightly side by side in layers, tucking pieces of bacon, bay leaves and thyme between the layers. Finish with the rest of the sauerkraut and bacon on top.
4. Mix the passata with the water and pour it over. Add more water if needed until the liquid just reaches the top layer of rolls. Cover with the lid.
5. Bake for 3 hours. After 1 1/2 hours, check the level and add a little hot water if the top looks dry. For the last 30 minutes, take the lid off so the top browns slightly.

Mămăligă and the table

Ingredients

• 6 cups (1.4 liters) water
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1 1/2 cups (250 g) fine or medium yellow cornmeal
• 2 tablespoons (30 g) butter
• 1 1/2 cups (360 g) full fat sour cream
• 4 fresh hot green or red peppers

Method

1. About 40 minutes before the sarmale are ready, bring the water and salt to a boil in the saucepan.
2. Turn the heat to medium low. Pour in the cornmeal in a thin stream with one hand while whisking constantly with the other, so no lumps form. It will spit, so stand back a little.
3. Switch to a wooden spoon and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring every few minutes and scraping the bottom. Stir in the butter at the end.
4. Spoon the mămăligă onto warm plates or turn it out onto a wooden board and cut it with a thread or knife. Put the sour cream in a bowl and the hot peppers on a saucer alongside the pot of sarmale.

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