Poale în brâu, often shortened to poale'n brâu and meaning skirts in the belt, are plăcinte from Moldavia, the northeastern region of Romania, and their name comes from the way the corners of the dough are tucked up over the filling, like the hem of a skirt pulled up into a waistband to keep it dry while washing clothes at the river. They come sweet, with fresh cheese and raisins, or savory, with salty sheep or cow's milk cheese and plenty of dill, and they are baked in homes, sold in bakeries and celebrated at food festivals in Moldavian towns. The word plăcintă itself goes back to the Latin placenta, a flat cake.

The savory version is the one to eat standing up: a soft, slightly sweet bread case, a hot salty center that tastes of the meadow, and a glossy top that leaves crumbs on your jacket. They are as good cold the next day as warm from the oven, which is why they travel to work, to school and to the grandstand in equal measure.

The dough

Ingredients

• 1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
• 2 1/4 teaspoons (7 g) active dry yeast
• 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar
• 4 cups (500 g) all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 large egg
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) sunflower oil

Method

1. Warm the milk in the saucepan over low heat until just lukewarm, about 100°F (38°C), barely warm on the inside of your wrist. Pour it into the large bowl, stir in the yeast and sugar and leave for 10 minutes.
2. Add the flour, salt, egg and oil and stir with a spoon until there is no dry flour left. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 8 to 10 minutes, pushing it away with the heel of your hand, folding it back and turning it, until smooth.
3. Put the dough back in the bowl, cover it and leave it in a warm place for about 1 hour.

The cheese and dill filling

Ingredients

• 10 oz (280 g) telemea or feta
• 5 oz (140 g) brânză de vaci, farmer's cheese or well drained ricotta
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 cup (20 g) fresh dill
• 2 scallions
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Method

1. In the medium bowl, mash the crumbled salty cheese and the fresh cheese together with the fork. Add the egg, dill, scallions (if using) and pepper and mix until evenly combined.
2. Taste a little of the filling before the egg goes in if you are unsure about salt, or simply taste the cheeses on their own. Adjust with more fresh cheese if it is too salty.

Shaping and baking

Ingredients

• 1 egg
• 1 tablespoon nigella seeds or extra chopped dill

Method

1. Line the baking sheets with parchment. Turn the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface, press out the air, and divide it in half. Roll each half into a rectangle about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick and roughly 10 x 20 inches (25 x 50 cm), then cut it into 8 squares of about 5 inches (12 cm).
2. Put a heaped tablespoon of filling in the center of each square and spread it slightly, leaving a wide border.
3. Lift two opposite corners of a square and press them together firmly over the center of the filling. Do the same with the other two corners, pressing all four points together in the middle. Leave the sides open so the filling shows through like little windows.
4. Set the pastries on the baking sheets about 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Let the pastries rest for 15 minutes, then press the centers again so they do not open, brush all over with the egg glaze and sprinkle with seeds or dill if you like.
5. Bake one sheet at a time in the middle of the oven for 20 to 25 minutes.
6. Move the pastries to the wire rack and let them cool for at least 10 minutes before eating; the filling is very hot inside.

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