Romania · Sweet finish

Papanași

Cheese doughnuts with sour cream and jam

Light, tangy fresh cheese doughnuts, each wearing a little ball on top like a hat, fried golden and drowned in sour cream and sour cherry jam.

Papanași

Ask Romanians to name one dessert and most will say papanași. They are doughnuts made not from a yeast dough but from soft fresh cheese, eggs and a little flour, so they are tender and faintly tangy inside. Each one is a ring with a small ball perched on top, rather like a hat, and the whole thing arrives buried under thick sour cream and a spoonful of dark jam, sour cherry or blueberry, that runs down the sides. The name is thought to come from the Latin for children's food, which may explain why adults eat them with such abandon.

They are made in minutes and must be eaten in minutes, which makes them the perfect finale for a race that has just finished: the cheering stops, the oil goes on, and dessert arrives before the podium interviews are over.

The doughnuts

Ingredients

Method

  1. If your cheese looks moist, wrap it in the cheesecloth and squeeze firmly over the sink. Then mash it in the bowl with a fork until there are no large lumps.
  2. Beat in the eggs, sugar, vanilla sugar, salt and lemon zest. Add the flour and baking powder and stir gently with a spoon just until it comes together. Do not knead.
  3. Flour your hands and the counter. Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces. From each, pinch off a piece the size of a large cherry and roll it into a ball. Shape the rest into a ball, flatten it to about 3/4 inch (2 cm) thick, and push your floured finger through the middle to make a ring with a hole about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Set the rings and balls on the floured plate.
  4. Pour the oil into the heavy pot to a depth of 2 1/2 inches (6 cm), leaving at least 2 inches (5 cm) of space above it. Clip on the thermometer and heat over medium heat to 340°F (170°C).
  5. Lower 2 or 3 rings and their balls into the oil with the slotted spoon. Fry the rings for 3 to 4 minutes on each side and the balls for about 3 minutes in all, turning them. Keep the oil between 330°F and 350°F (165°C and 175°C).
  6. Lift onto the paper towels and fry the rest.

To serve

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put a warm ring on each plate, spoon a generous dollop of sour cream over it, set the small ball on top like a hat and finish with a spoonful of jam so it runs down the sides. Dust with powdered sugar if you like.

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