Romania · Sweet finish

Cozonac

Sweet bread with walnut and cocoa swirl

A rich, tall yeast bread scented with citrus zest and vanilla, rolled around a dark walnut and cocoa filling, twisted, and baked into loaves that slice into glossy swirls.

Cozonac

No Romanian Easter or Christmas table is considered complete without cozonac, and many households would add weddings, christenings and family remembrance days to that list. It is a rich bread enriched with eggs, milk, butter and sugar, perfumed with lemon and orange zest, and most often rolled around a filling of ground walnuts and cocoa so that each slice shows a dark, marbled spiral. Families keep their own versions with raisins, rum, or cubes of Turkish delight, and debate them the way other nations argue about football.

It has a reputation for being temperamental, and the reputation is fair: the dough wants warmth, patience and a long knead, and it dislikes cold drafts and impatient oven door openings. But nothing about it is beyond a careful beginner who reads the steps and keeps the kitchen warm. The reward is two tall loaves with a soft, feathery crumb that pulls apart in strands, and a house that smells like a holiday for the rest of the race weekend.

The dough

Ingredients

The walnut and cocoa filling

Ingredients

Shaping and baking

Ingredients

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