Long before gas was found under it, Qatar lived from the sea: pearl diving, fishing and trade. Fish is still central to its cooking, and on the coast around Doha and Lusail a whole fish, often hamour, a local grouper, is rubbed with a vivid yellow spice paste and grilled over coals. Samak mashwi simply means grilled fish, and as with most simple names it covers a dish people take very seriously.

It is quick, light and fragrant, a welcome change from the slow cooked rice and meat dishes on a Gulf table. Lusail sits right on the coast, so a fish from the Gulf is the most local thing you can put on the plate.

The fish

Ingredients

• 2 whole fish
• 6 cloves garlic
• 1 tablespoon fresh ginger
• 1 small handful cilantro
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
• 1 teaspoon bizar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) lemon juice
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) olive oil
• 1 lemon

Method

1. Mix the garlic, ginger, cilantro, all the spices, salt, lemon juice and olive oil in the small bowl.
2. With the sharp knife, make 3 or 4 deep diagonal cuts on each side of each fish, down to the bone but not through it.
3. Rub the paste all over the fish, pushing it deep into the cuts and inside the belly. Tuck the lemon slices into the belly. Let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes in the fridge.
4. Lay the fish on the oiled tray and roast for 20 to 25 minutes, or grill in an oiled fish basket for 7 to 9 minutes per side. Fillets need 10 to 12 minutes in the oven.

Tomato and cucumber salad

Ingredients

• 3 tomatoes
• 1 cucumber
• 1/2 red onion
• 1 handful parsley
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Method

1. Toss everything together just before serving.

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