Qatar · Sweet finish

Rahash

Tahini halwa with saffron, cardamom and pistachios

Toasted sesame paste beaten with hot sugar syrup until it seizes into a crumbly, fudgy halwa, scented with saffron and cardamom and studded with pistachios.

Rahash

Rahash is the Gulf's name for tahini halwa, the sesame sweet that is part fudge, part shortbread and wholly addictive. In Doha it has its own specialist sweet shops, and at least one old established counter makes it fresh every day in plain, saffron and chocolate versions, sells it by weight and is usually cleared out by evening. It is grainy and fibrous when you break it, soft and toffee like as you chew, and melts into a nutty cream on the tongue, a sequence that makes one piece seem a reasonable decision and the fourth inevitable.

It has become something of a Qatari passion. Local dessert makers have folded rahash into cupcakes, ice cream and even popcorn, and Doha's food festival has given it pride of place.

Making it at home is pleasingly simple chemistry. Sugar syrup cooked to a precise temperature is beaten into warm tahini, and within a minute the mixture tightens, turns matte and starts to pull away from the bowl. Speed and a thermometer are all you need; nerves of the kind required for a final lap defence are optional.

The tahini base

Ingredients

The sugar syrup

Ingredients

Beating and setting

Ingredients

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