Shawarma came to the Gulf from the Levant, and in Doha it has become the late night food of the whole city: every neighborhood has a cafeteria with a turning spit, a counter and a man who can roll a wrap in four seconds. The Gulf way is to tuck a few French fries and plenty of pickles inside, with a fierce, fluffy garlic sauce called toum, and to toast the finished roll on the griddle.

Without a vertical spit, thin slices of well marinated thigh meat roasted at high heat and finished in a hot pan come remarkably close. Wrapped in paper, they are the perfect thing to hold during a night race under the Lusail floodlights, or on the sofa watching it.

The chicken

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 lb (1.1 kg) boneless, skinless chicken thighs
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) plain whole milk yogurt
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) olive oil
• 5 cloves garlic
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 onion

Method

1. Whisk the yogurt, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, all the spices and the salt in the large bowl. Add the chicken and onion and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.
2. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Spread the chicken and onion in one layer on the lined baking sheet. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, until cooked and browned at the edges.
3. Rest 5 minutes, then slice the chicken thinly. Heat the skillet over high heat with a little of the pan juices and sear the slices in batches for 1 to 2 minutes, tossing.

Toum, garlic sauce

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (about 70 g) peeled garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) neutral oil
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) ice water

Method

1. Process the garlic and salt in the food processor, scraping down twice, for about 1 minute.
2. With the machine running, pour in 2 tablespoons of oil in a very thin thread, then 1 teaspoon of lemon juice. Keep going: a thin thread of oil, then a little lemon, alternating, over 6 to 8 minutes. Add the ice water at the end.
3. Scrape into a jar and refrigerate.

Wrapping

Ingredients

• 6 large thin flatbreads
• 1/2 cup pickled turnips
• 1/2 cup dill pickles
• 2 tomatoes
• 2 cups hot French fries

Method

1. Lay a flatbread flat. Spread 1 to 2 tablespoons of toum across the middle. Add a line of chicken, a few pickles, tomato slices and a small handful of fries.
2. Fold the bottom edge up over the filling, fold in the sides, then roll it up tightly into a cylinder.
3. Toast the rolls seam side down in the dry skillet over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, then turn and toast 1 minute more.

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