In June, Lisbon celebrates its popular saints, and the city's narrow streets fill with paper garlands, music and the smoke of a thousand small charcoal grills. On every one of them are sardines, salted and grilled whole, eaten on a slice of bread with the fingers. The bread is not a plate exactly, more an apprentice: it soaks up the fat and juices, and is eaten last as the reward.

Sardines are at their fattest and best in summer, and the method could hardly be simpler: salt, fire and a few minutes. It is outdoor food in the truest sense, which is why it suits a race day so well. A small grill, a tray of fish and a loaf of bread will feed a hungry crowd faster than the safety car can circle the track.

The sardines

Ingredients

• 16 to 20 fresh whole sardines
• 2 tablespoons coarse sea salt
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil

To serve

Ingredients

• 8 thick slices broa or country bread
• 2 lemons
• 2 green or red bell peppers
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil

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