The francesinha, little French girl, is said to have been created in Porto in the 1950s by a returning emigrant who wanted to give the croque monsieur he had eaten in France a Portuguese accent. The accent turned out to be a shout. Layers of steak, cured sausage and ham are stacked between slices of bread, covered entirely in cheese, melted in the oven and served in a deep plate swimming in a hot, spicy sauce made with beer, tomato and a splash of port.

Porto argues endlessly about which café makes the best one and guards its sauce recipes like family silver. It is not light, not dainty and not meant to be. One francesinha with a pile of fries is a meal that carries you comfortably from the start of the race to the end, and possibly through the next one as well.

The sauce

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil
• 1 medium yellow onion
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 can (14 oz / 400 g) crushed tomatoes
• 1 bottle (12 oz / 330 ml) lager beer
• 1 cup (240 ml) beef stock
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) ruby port
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) Worcestershire sauce
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon piri piri flakes or hot sauce
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt

The sandwiches

Ingredients

• 4 thin beef steaks
• 2 linguiça sausages
• 2 fresh pork sausages
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) vegetable oil
• 8 slices thick white sandwich bread
• 8 slices cooked ham
• 16 thin slices (about 12 oz / 340 g) Flamengo cheese
• 4 large eggs
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

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