Caldo verde, green broth, began in the Minho in the far north of Portugal, near Porto, and has long since become the country's national soup. Portuguese meals often start with soup at both lunch and dinner, and this is the one served at weddings, at street festivals in clay bowls with a slice of cornbread, and late at night after a long party. It is built on very little: potatoes, onion, garlic, a dark cabbage called couve galega cut into the thinnest possible strands, and a few slices of chouriço.

The cutting is the only art. Portuguese markets sell the greens ready shredded by machine; at home, a sharp knife and a little patience produce ribbons fine enough to cook in three minutes and stay a vivid green. It is cheap, quick and deeply comforting, which makes it ideal for the evening before an early start at Estoril or Portimão.

The potato broth

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) extra virgin olive oil
• 1 large yellow onion
• 3 garlic cloves
• 2 lb (900 g) Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes
• 8 cups (2 liters) water
• 2 teaspoons fine salt

Method

1. Heat the olive oil in the pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for 6 minutes. Add the garlic and stir 1 minute.
2. Add the potatoes, water and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn to medium low, cover and simmer for 20 minutes.
3. Take the pot off the heat. Mash the potatoes into the liquid with the masher until almost smooth, or blend with the stick blender. Return to low heat.

The greens and chouriço

Ingredients

• 8 oz (225 g) chouriço
• 1 lb (450 g) couve galega or collard greens
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. While the potatoes cook, wash and dry the leaves. Stack 5 or 6 leaves, roll them tightly into a cigar and slice across the roll as thinly as you can with the sharp knife. Repeat with the rest, then fluff the ribbons apart.
2. Cook the chouriço slices in the dry skillet over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes a side.
3. Bring the broth back to a simmer, add the greens and stir. Simmer uncovered for 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the chouriço and its fat and the pepper. Taste and add salt if needed.

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