Portugal · Regional favorite

Açorda alentejana

Alentejo garlic, cilantro and bread soup with poached eggs

Garlic, salt and a big bunch of cilantro pounded with olive oil, steeped in boiling water over slices of country bread and crowned with a soft poached egg: the bright green bread soup of the Alentejo.

Açorda alentejana

The Alentejo is the wide, hot, rolling south of Portugal, a land of wheat fields, cork oaks and olive groves, and its cooking has always made the most of bread. Açorda alentejana is the purest example. Garlic, coarse salt and fresh cilantro are crushed to a paste in a mortar, loosened with olive oil, and then boiling water is poured straight over the paste and over slices of firm, day old bread. A poached egg goes on top, and that is the whole dish. It began as a way to use up stale bread, and it has never needed improving.

It sounds austere and tastes anything but. The hot water releases the perfume of the cilantro and garlic all at once, the olive oil turns the broth silky, and the bread softens into something halfway between a soup and a savory pudding. It is eaten with a spoon, slowly, sometimes with fish or salt cod poached in the same water, and with a quiet confidence that a few ingredients well handled are all a table needs.

From start to finish it takes about 20 minutes, which makes it the ideal supper after a long race weekend, when the strategy discussion has outlasted the snacks.

The garlic and cilantro paste

Ingredients

Bread, water and eggs

Ingredients

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