Poland · Sweet finish

Pączki

Polish filled doughnuts with rose jam and orange glaze

Rich, golden yeast doughnuts made with egg yolks, butter and orange zest, filled with rose petal or plum jam and brushed with a thin, crackling glaze.

Pączki

Pączki are Poland's doughnuts, and on one day of the year they are close to a national obligation. On Tłusty Czwartek, Fat Thursday, the last Thursday before Lent, bakeries cannot fry them fast enough. The custom began as a way of using up lard, eggs, sugar and fruit in the house before the Lenten fast, and an old saying warns that anyone who skips their pączki that day will find their barn empty. Few Poles keep a barn, and fewer still take the risk.

A good pączek is heavier and richer than an American doughnut, made with plenty of egg yolks and butter, and it has no hole. The traditional filling is jam made from wild rose petals, perfumed and slightly tart, or powidła, a thick, dark plum butter. The finish is a thin sugar glaze, sometimes scattered with candied orange peel, or a dusting of powdered sugar. A splash of spirit goes into the dough, and it has a practical purpose: as it evaporates in the hot oil, it helps stop the dough soaking up fat. A pale stripe around the middle is taken as the sign of a pączek fried in fresh oil, and bakers are quietly judged by it.

They take a morning and reward patience. Fry a batch on race weekend and they will vanish faster than a soft tire stint.

The dough

Ingredients

Shaping and frying

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Filling and glazing

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