In the Podhale highlands below the Tatra mountains, shepherds have made oscypek for centuries: sheep's milk cheese pressed into carved wooden molds, which leave a decorative pattern on its spindle shaped sides, then brined and smoked over wood. Since 2007 it has carried European Union protected origin status, so the real thing comes only from the region. In Zakopane, the mountain resort that serves as Poland's winter capital, street stalls grill slices over charcoal and serve them with cranberry sauce, and the smell drifts down the main street all year round.

The combination of salt, smoke and sharp fruit is irresistible and needs barely any cooking. It is a fine snack for a mountain race weekend, or for any weekend that would like to feel like one.

The cranberry sauce

Ingredients

• 2 cups (200 g) fresh or frozen cranberries
• 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
• 1/3 cup (80 ml) water

Method

1. Put the cranberries, sugar and water in the small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Spoon into a bowl and let cool to warm or room temperature.

The cheese

Ingredients

• 1 lb (450 g) oscypek
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) vegetable oil

Method

1. Cut the cheese into slices about 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick, on a slight diagonal across the spindle to show off the pattern.
2. Heat the grill pan or skillet over medium high heat for 3 minutes. Brush the cheese slices lightly with oil on both sides.
3. Lay the slices in the pan and cook without moving for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, then turn with the thin spatula and cook 1 to 1 1/2 minutes more.

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