The green lipped mussel, sold in New Zealand under the name Greenshell, grows only in New Zealand waters, and most of the farmed crop comes from the long, drowned valleys of the Marlborough Sounds at the top of the South Island. The small town of Havelock calls itself the mussel capital of the world, a title nobody has yet felt confident enough to contest. The shells are large with a bright green rim, and the meat is plump, sweet and rather more substantial than that of the European blue mussel.

Marlborough is also the heartland of New Zealand sauvignon blanc, so the pairing practically arranges itself: the mussels are steamed open in the wine and the rest of the bottle goes on the table. It is a ten minute dish that tastes like a weekend by the sea.

The mussels

Ingredients

• 4 lb (1.8 kg) live green lipped mussels
• 3 tablespoons (45 g) butter
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive oil
• 2 shallots
• 4 garlic cloves
• 1 fresh red chili
• 3/4 cup (180 ml) sauvignon blanc
• 1/2 cup (15 g) fresh flat leaf parsley
• 1 lemon

Method

1. Put the mussels in the colander in the sink and rinse under cold running water. Scrub off any mud. Pull off the hairy beard poking out from each shell by tugging it firmly toward the hinge, or cut it off with the knife. Discard any cracked mussels or open ones that do not close when tapped.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon butter with the oil in the pot over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook 3 minutes, stirring, then add the garlic and chili for 1 minute.
3. Turn the heat to high, pour in the wine and let it bubble for 1 minute.
4. Tip in the mussels, cover tightly and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, shaking the pot firmly by its handles every 2 minutes so they cook evenly.
5. Lift the mussels into the serving bowl with tongs. Whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and most of the parsley into the broth in the pot, then pour it over the mussels.

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