New Zealand · Regional favorite

Rēwena

Māori potato sourdough bread

A round, golden Māori sourdough loaf raised with a fermented potato starter called a bug, with a crackly crust, a soft, slightly chewy crumb and a gentle sweet and sour flavor that is made for butter and jam.

Rēwena

Rēwena is Māori bread, and its secret is the potato. Instead of commercial yeast, it rises on a bug: potatoes boiled, mashed and mixed with flour and sugar, then left to ferment for a day or more until it bubbles with wild yeast. Once a bug is going, it can be kept alive for years with regular feeding, and some Māori bakers today still use one handed down through their families for generations. The name means flour leaven, and the method grew from the potatoes and wheat flour that became part of Māori cooking in the nineteenth century.

The flavor is unlike any other sourdough: softly sweet, faintly tangy, with a moist, close crumb and a crust that crackles. It is surprisingly hard to buy a proper loaf in New Zealand, since many shop versions are ordinary yeast bread with potato added, which only makes the real thing at home more rewarding. Rēwena is at its best warm or toasted, thickly spread with butter and raspberry jam.

Starting a bug takes two days of patience, which is about the time between first practice and the race. Begin it as practice gets under way, bake on the morning of the race, and the loaf will be cooling on the rack by the time the cars leave the grid.

The potato bug

Ingredients

The rēwena loaf

Ingredients

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