New Zealand · Drinks and cocktails

Flat white

Double espresso with velvety microfoam milk

A small, strong coffee: a double shot of espresso topped with silky steamed milk and a thin, glossy layer of microfoam, served in a little cup.

Flat white

The flat white is the coffee New Zealand and Australia have spent decades arguing over, with the cheerful ferocity they usually reserve for rugby and the pavlova. Australians point to a Sydney café that put it on the menu in the mid 1980s; New Zealanders tell of a Wellington barista in 1989 whose milk refused to foam for a cappuccino, so he served it flat and gave it a name. Both countries were clearly drinking it by the end of that decade, and both still insist. What nobody disputes is what it is: a double espresso topped with a modest amount of steamed milk, textured into a fine, glossy microfoam with only a thin, flat layer on top, rather than the airy dome of a cappuccino or the milky volume of a latte.

In New Zealand it usually comes in a small ceramic cup, a little smaller than the Australian one, so the coffee keeps its strength. The skill is all in the milk: heated to the point where it tastes sweet, never scalded, and stretched with just enough air to turn it into something like wet paint. With an espresso machine it is straightforward; without one, a stovetop moka pot and a jar make a respectable version.

It is the natural companion to an early race. Formula 1 reaches New Zealand at hours that require coffee, and this one is strong enough to keep you awake through the opening stint and small enough to make a second cup reasonable.

The espresso

Ingredients

Method

  1. With an espresso machine: fill and level the basket with 18 to 20 g of ground coffee, tamp it firmly and evenly, lock it in and pull a double shot directly into a warmed cup, aiming for about 1 1/2 to 2 fl oz (45 to 60 ml) in 25 to 30 seconds. Repeat for the second cup.
  2. Without a machine: fill the bottom chamber of the moka pot with hot water to just below the valve, fill the basket with coffee, level it without pressing, screw on the top and set it over medium low heat with the lid open. Take it off the heat as soon as the coffee starts to sputter, and divide about 4 fl oz (120 ml) between the two warmed cups.

The milk

Ingredients

Method

  1. With a steam wand: pour the cold milk into the pitcher, so it comes no higher than the bottom of the spout. Purge the wand briefly, then lower the tip just below the surface of the milk and open the steam fully. Keep the tip just under the surface for 3 to 5 seconds, so it draws in a little air with a gentle hissing sound.
  2. Lower the wand a little deeper and tilt the pitcher so the milk spins in a whirlpool. Keep it spinning until the milk reaches 140 to 150°F (60 to 65°C), then close the steam. Wipe the wand with the damp cloth and purge it.
  3. Heat the milk in the small saucepan or microwave to 140 to 150°F (60 to 65°C). Pour it into the jar, filling it no more than half full, screw the lid on tightly, wrap it in a towel and shake hard for 20 to 30 seconds. Or pump it in a French press for 15 seconds.
  4. Tap the pitcher or jar firmly on the counter twice to burst any large bubbles, then swirl the milk in circles for a few seconds.

Pouring

Ingredients

Method

  1. Hold a cup tilted slightly toward you. Pour the milk from about 2 inches (5 cm) above, into the center of the coffee, in a thin steady stream. As the cup fills, bring the pitcher down close to the surface and straighten the cup, so a little foam spreads across the top. Stop when the cup is full. Repeat with the second cup.

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