Netherlands · Trackside classic

Frikandel speciaal

Fried skinless sausage split and topped with mayonnaise, curry ketchup and raw onion

A long, smooth, deep fried meat sausage without a casing, split down its length and loaded with mayonnaise, spiced curry ketchup and sharp chopped onion.

Frikandel speciaal

Walk up to any snack bar in the Netherlands and the frikandel will be in the glass cabinet, or more likely in the freezer behind the counter waiting for the fryer. It is a long, slim, skinless sausage of finely ground meat, poached at the factory and then deep fried to order until the outside is crisp and the inside stays soft and juicy. The Dutch get through around 600 million of them a year, more than 37 for every person in the country, which makes it the most popular snack in a nation that takes its snacks seriously.

The modern frikandel is a post war invention, and two men are still credited with it: Gerrit de Vries in Dordrecht in 1954, and Jan Bekkers in Deurne in 1958, whose finer textured version became the standard. Ordered plain it comes with a squeeze of sauce. Ordered speciaal, it is slit open and filled with mayonnaise, curry ketchup and chopped raw onion, which is the version that counts. Factory frikandellen are hard to buy outside the Low Countries, so this recipe shows how to make them at home: blend, roll, poach, fry. It is more effort than reaching into a snack bar freezer, and rather more satisfying.

The frikandellen

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Quick curry ketchup

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The speciaal topping

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