Netherlands · Trackside classic

Bitterballen

Crisp fried beef ragout balls

Crisp crumbed balls of rich, molten beef ragout, served scorching hot with sharp mustard: the Dutch bar snack that rewards patience and punishes haste.

Bitterballen

Bitterballen are small, round croquettes filled with a thick beef ragout, rolled in breadcrumbs and fried until the shell crackles. They are served on almost every Dutch café and bar menu as part of the borrel, the early evening round of drinks and snacks, always with a pot of strong mustard. The name has nothing to do with bitterness; they were made to go with bitters, the herbal liquors once poured alongside them.

The filling stays molten long after the outside looks harmless, so every Dutch person learns to bite carefully and blow on the second half. Think of it as a lesson in tire warmers: give them a minute before pushing.

The beef

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the beef, stock, onion and bay leaf in the medium pot. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam, then cover and simmer very gently for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
  2. Lift out the beef and let it cool for 10 minutes. Strain the stock and keep 2 cups (480 ml) of it. Shred the beef with two forks, then chop it finely with a knife.

The ragout

Ingredients

Method

  1. Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook for 2 minutes. Add the flour and stir constantly for 2 minutes. This paste of fat and flour is called a roux and it will thicken the ragout.
  2. Pour in the hot stock a ladle at a time, whisking hard after each addition until smooth before adding the next.
  3. Stir in the shredded beef, Worcestershire sauce, nutmeg and parsley. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring. Taste and season well with salt and pepper; it should taste slightly overseasoned, as cold food tastes milder.
  4. Spread it in the shallow dish, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.

Coating and frying

Ingredients

Method

  1. With lightly wet hands, roll tablespoons of the cold ragout into balls about 1 1/4 inches (3 cm) across. Set them on a tray. If they soften, chill them for 15 minutes.
  2. Put the flour, egg and breadcrumbs in three separate bowls. Roll each ball in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs. Then dip it in egg and breadcrumbs a second time. The double coat stops the filling bursting out in the oil.
  3. Heat the oil in the large pot, about 2 inches (5 cm) deep, to 350°F (175°C).
  4. Fry 6 to 8 balls at a time for 3 to 4 minutes, turning them gently, until deep golden. Lift them onto the rack or paper towels. Let the oil come back to temperature between batches.

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