Advocaat is a Dutch liqueur of egg yolks, sugar and brandy, gently cooked until it thickens into something between a custard and a drink. The thick Dutch style is served in a small glass with a cloud of whipped cream on top and eaten with a little spoon; a looser version is poured over ice cream or into a Snowball with lemonade. The Dutch call a glass with cream a kopje advocaat met slagroom, and it is a fixture of birthdays, family visits and the dark months.

The story its makers like to tell traces it to Dutch colonists in Brazil, who found no avocados at home for a local avocado drink and used egg yolks instead. The tale is hard to prove and too good to leave out. Whatever its origin, a small glass makes a fine way to toast a home win at Zandvoort, and the zero proof version below is just as good spooned over fruit.

The advocaat

Ingredients

• 8 large egg yolks
• 2/3 cup (130 g) granulated sugar
• 1 pinch fine salt
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3/4 cup (180 ml) brandy
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream

Method

1. Pour about 2 inches (5 cm) of water into the saucepan and bring it to a bare simmer over low heat. The bowl should sit on top without touching the water. Have the bowl of ice water ready next to the stove.
2. Off the heat, whisk the yolks, sugar, salt and vanilla in the heatproof bowl for 2 to 3 minutes.
3. Pour in the brandy in a thin stream, whisking all the time.
4. Set the bowl over the simmering water and whisk constantly, scraping the sides and bottom, for 8 to 12 minutes. Check the temperature often. Lift the bowl off for a few seconds if the edges seem to be setting.
5. Immediately set the bowl in the ice water and whisk for 2 minutes to stop the cooking. If you want a pourable advocaat, whisk in the cream now. Pour it through the sieve into the jar to catch any cooked bits, seal and chill for at least 2 hours.

To serve

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (120 ml) cold heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon powdered sugar
• cocoa powder or grated chocolate

Method

1. Whisk the cream and powdered sugar until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes by hand mixer.
2. Spoon about 1/4 cup (60 ml) of advocaat into small glasses and top each with a spoonful of whipped cream and a light dusting of cocoa.

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