Morocco · Regional favorite

Zaalouk

Smoky eggplant and tomato salad

Charred, silky eggplant folded into a thick sauce of tomato, garlic, cumin and paprika, finished with herbs and olive oil and scooped up with warm bread.

Zaalouk

A Moroccan meal for guests rarely starts with a single dish. It starts with a spread of small cooked salads, set in the middle of the table with bread for scooping, and zaalouk is the one that empties first. Eggplant is cooked until it collapses, then stirred into tomatoes reduced with garlic, cumin, paprika and olive oil until the two become one soft, spoonable mixture, brightened at the end with cilantro, parsley and a squeeze of lemon. The food writer Paula Wolfert counted it among the best of all Moroccan cooked salads, and few who have mopped up a plate of it would argue.

Every household has its method. Some cooks stew raw eggplant and tomatoes together in one pot; others grill or roast the eggplant whole first, which gives a gentle smokiness that we think is worth the extra ten minutes. It is served warm, at room temperature or cold, and it tastes better on the second day, which is rare and welcome generosity from a vegetable.

It is naturally vegan, costs very little and keeps for days, so it is the ideal thing to have in the fridge across a race weekend, ready with bread whenever the session gets tense.

The roasted eggplant

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put an oven rack about 6 inches (15 cm) below the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Line the baking sheet with foil. Prick each eggplant 5 or 6 times all over with a fork so steam can escape, and lay them on the sheet.
  2. Broil the eggplants for 30 to 40 minutes, turning them with tongs every 8 to 10 minutes so every side blackens. If the skin chars before the inside is soft, turn the oven to 425°F (220°C) and keep roasting.
  3. Move the eggplants to the bowl, cover it with a plate and leave them for 10 minutes so the steam loosens the skin. Split each one open, scoop the soft flesh out with a spoon and discard the skin and stem. Chop the flesh roughly on the board.

The tomato sauce and finishing

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the eggplant roasts, cut each tomato in half across the middle. Hold each half by the skin and rub the cut side against the large holes of the box grater over a bowl until only the skin is left in your hand. Discard the skins.
  2. Put the olive oil and garlic in the frying pan over medium heat and stir for 1 minute. Add the paprika, cumin, cayenne if using, and salt, stir for 20 seconds, then pour in the grated tomato. Simmer, stirring every few minutes, for 12 to 15 minutes.
  3. Add the chopped eggplant and stir it into the sauce. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes more, stirring and pressing everything with the masher or fork so the eggplant breaks down and blends with the tomato.
  4. Take the pan off the heat. Stir in most of the herbs and the lemon juice. Taste and add more salt if needed. Spoon it into the serving bowl and finish with a swirl of olive oil, the rest of the herbs and a pinch of cumin.

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