Morocco · Trackside classic

Sfenj

Moroccan yeasted doughnut rings

Big, irregular rings of sticky yeasted dough, stretched by hand and fried until crisp outside and airy and chewy within, then dusted with sugar or dipped in honey: the street corner breakfast of Morocco.

Sfenj

Sfenj are made from almost nothing: flour, water, yeast and salt, mixed into a dough so wet that it is pulled into shape with damp hands rather than rolled. A ball is torn off, a thumb is pushed through the middle, the ring is stretched wide and dropped into hot oil, and a minute later out comes a lopsided golden hoop with a crisp shell and a chewy, open crumb. The name comes from the Arabic word for sponge, which describes the inside perfectly, and food historians trace the fritter back to Muslim Spain, al Andalus, from where it crossed to North Africa centuries ago.

In Moroccan towns the sfenj seller fries them to order in the morning for breakfast and again in the late afternoon, and customers carry them off threaded on a strip of palm frond or string, still too hot to hold. They are eaten plain, rolled in sugar or dipped in honey, with mint tea or strong coffee. The dough contains no sugar, no butter and no egg, which may be the only time a doughnut has been described as restrained.

The dough

Ingredients

Shaping and frying

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To finish

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