Morocco · Trackside classic

Brochettes de kefta

Spiced minced lamb skewers

Spiced minced lamb pressed onto skewers, charred over high heat and stuffed into warm bread with a sharp tomato and onion salad.

Brochettes de kefta

Follow the smoke in any Moroccan town at dusk and you will find kefta: minced lamb or beef kneaded with onion, parsley, cilantro, cumin and paprika, pressed around skewers and grilled over charcoal until the edges blacken and the fat spits. Street grills sell them by the skewer, slid off into half a loaf of bread with a spoonful of chopped tomato and onion, and the queue is part of the evening. Moroccans, with a nod to French, call any skewer a brochette.

They are made for crowds and for eating standing up, which is exactly what a race weekend asks of food. The mixture can be prepared the night before, the cooking takes ten minutes, and nobody has ever needed cutlery.

The kefta

Ingredients

Method

  1. Grate the onion on the large holes of the box grater. Pile the pulp in the middle of the clean towel or a wad of paper towels, gather it up and squeeze hard over the sink.
  2. Put the meat, onion, herbs, paprika, cumin, salt, pepper, cayenne and cinnamon in the bowl. Knead with your hands for 2 minutes, squeezing the mixture through your fingers.
  3. Divide the mixture into 12 equal balls. With damp hands, press each ball around a skewer and squeeze it into a long, even sausage about 5 inches (13 cm) long and 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Lay them on a plate, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
  4. Heat the grill or grill pan over high heat for 10 minutes, or heat the broiler on high with the rack about 4 inches (10 cm) from the element. Brush the grill bars or pan with the oil, using a folded paper towel held in tongs.
  5. Lay the skewers on the grill and leave them alone for 3 minutes, so a crust forms before you move them. Turn with tongs and cook 3 to 4 minutes more on each side, 8 to 10 minutes in all. Under a broiler, cook on a foil lined baking sheet and turn once.

Tomato and onion salad

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the grill heats, stir the tomatoes, onion, parsley, olive oil, cumin and salt together in a bowl. Leave it to stand for 10 minutes.

To serve

Ingredients

Method

  1. Warm the breads on the edge of the grill or in a 350°F (180°C) oven for 3 minutes. Split each one open. Slide two kefta off their skewers into each bread using a fork, and spoon in some salad and a little harissa if you like heat.

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