Morocco · Sweet finish

Ghriba bahla

Crackled semolina and sesame shortbread cookies

Sandy, crunchy Moroccan shortbread with toasted sesame and semolina, baked until the tops split into a pattern of pale cracks.

Ghriba bahla

Every Moroccan pastry tray seems to hold a ghriba of some kind, the family of crumbly cookies served with mint tea to guests and at celebrations. Ghriba bahla is the sandy, crunchy member of the family, made with butter and oil, semolina and flour, and plenty of toasted sesame seeds. As it bakes, the top splits into a web of cracks, and those cracks give the cookie its name: bahla is usually translated as silly or foolish, which seems unkind to something so well behaved.

Our version leaves out the almonds that some cooks add, so it is nut free as written and keeps its own character beside the almond milk elsewhere in this chapter. The dough comes together in one bowl, the cookies keep for a week in a tin, and a plate of them beside the teapot turns a race into an occasion.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the sesame seeds in the dry skillet over medium heat and stir constantly for 3 to 4 minutes. Tip them onto a plate at once so they stop cooking, and let them cool.
  2. In the bowl, beat the sugar, butter, oil, vanilla and salt with the wooden spoon or the mixer for 2 minutes.
  3. Stir in the cooled sesame seeds and the semolina. Mix the baking powder into the flour, then add the flour about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring after each addition, until the dough comes together.
  4. Knead the dough in the bowl with your hand, pushing it away with the heel of your palm and folding it back, for 10 minutes, or 5 minutes with the mixer on low with the dough hook.

Shaping and baking

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) with a rack in the middle. Line the baking sheets with parchment.
  2. Pull off pieces of dough the size of a walnut, about 1 oz (25 g), and roll each into a smooth ball between your palms. Press the top of each ball into the sugar on the plate, then set it sugar side up on the baking sheet and flatten very slightly with two fingers. Space them 2 inches (5 cm) apart; you should get 15 per tray.
  3. Bake one tray at a time for 16 to 18 minutes. Do not open the oven for the first 12 minutes.
  4. Leave the cookies on the tray for 5 minutes, then move them to the rack to cool completely. Bake the second tray the same way.

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