Morocco · Signature dish

Djaj mqualli

Chicken tagine with preserved lemon and olives

Chicken braised until it slips from the bone in a golden sauce of onion, ginger and saffron, sharpened with preserved lemon and green olives.

Djaj mqualli

If Morocco had to send one dish abroad to represent it, this would be a strong candidate. Djaj mqualli is chicken cooked slowly with grated onion, ginger, turmeric and a pinch of saffron until the onion melts into a thick, glossy sauce, then finished with salty green olives and the soft, perfumed peel of preserved lemon. It is the tagine served to guests and at family celebrations, and it is eaten the Moroccan way: with bread, torn and used as a spoon, from a shared dish in the middle of the table.

The word tagine means both the dish and the cone lidded clay pot it is cooked in, but the pot is optional. A heavy lidded casserole does the same job, which is to trap steam and let the chicken braise gently in its own juices. The sauce rewards a little patience at the end, and the whole thing reheats with grace, which makes it a natural for a race day: cook in the morning, warm it as the cars line up, and nobody has to leave the sofa during the final laps.

The chicken and sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cut the onions in half through the root and grate them on the large holes of the box grater into a bowl, holding the root end as a handle. Stop when only the root is left and throw it away.
  2. Crumble the saffron between your fingers into the small bowl and pour over 2 tablespoons of the measured water. Leave it while you start the pot.
  3. Put the chicken in the pot (off the heat). Add the grated onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric, pepper, salt, olive oil and half the chopped herbs. Turn everything with the tongs or your hands until every piece is coated. Wash your hands well after handling raw chicken.
  4. Set the pot over medium heat and cook for 10 minutes, turning the pieces every few minutes, so the onion softens and the spices cook in the oil. Do not try to brown it.
  5. Add the saffron water and the rest of the water. Bring to a bubble, then turn the heat to low, cover and simmer for 40 minutes, turning the chicken once halfway and stirring the sauce so it does not catch on the bottom.

Preserved lemon and olive finish

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the chicken simmers, cut the preserved lemon into quarters. Scrape out and throw away the soft pulp and seeds with a spoon, then rinse the peel under cold water and cut it into thin strips about 1/4 inch (6 mm) wide. Rinse the olives in a sieve to remove excess brine.
  2. When the chicken is done, lift the pieces out with tongs onto a warm plate and cover loosely with foil.
  3. Turn the heat to medium high and boil the sauce uncovered, stirring often, for 5 to 10 minutes.
  4. Stir in the olives and preserved lemon peel. Return the chicken to the pot, spoon the sauce over it, cover and warm through on low for 5 minutes. Taste the sauce and add the fresh lemon juice if it needs brightness. Salt is rarely needed at this point.

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