Morocco · Sweet finish

Chebakia

Sesame flower cookies soaked in honey

Spiced sesame dough folded into little flowers, fried until deep gold, plunged into hot honey scented with orange blossom and showered with toasted sesame.

Chebakia

In the weeks before Ramadan, Moroccan kitchens turn into small production lines. Dough is rolled, cut and folded at the table, fried in batches and dropped into pots of hot honey, and the results are stacked in tins by the hundred, because chebakia belong on the table at the evening meal that breaks each day's fast, beside a bowl of harira and a dish of dates. They also appear at weddings and to celebrate a birth. Depending on the city and the generation, they may be called mkharka or griouech instead, and the family that makes the best ones in the street is never in any doubt about it.

The dough is flavored with toasted ground sesame, anise, cinnamon and saffron, and each cookie is cut with slits and folded into a shape that looks like a flower or a rose. The folding takes a few tries, then becomes as automatic as tying a shoelace. The result is crisp, sticky, perfumed and dark gold, and the tin they live in will be visited far more often than anyone admits.

They keep for weeks, so they are made well ahead of any occasion. A plate of them with mint tea is a fine way to settle the nerves during a tight final stint.

The dough

Ingredients

Shaping the flowers

Ingredients

Frying and honey soaking

Ingredients

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