Chard grows with great enthusiasm along this coast, and the cooks of Monaco and Nice have spent centuries finding uses for it. The tourte de blettes is the most beloved: a thin, crisp pastry made with olive oil rather than butter, wrapped around chard bound with eggs, a little rice and plenty of Parmesan. At Easter Monaco makes a grander layered cousin called pasqualina, but this everyday version is the one sold by the slice in bakeries all year.

It slices cleanly, travels well and tastes better at room temperature than it has any right to, which makes it ideal for a long afternoon on a terrace overlooking the circuit. The region also makes a sweet version with raisins and pine nuts, which is a conversation for another day.

The olive oil pastry

Ingredients

• 2 2/3 cups (330 g) all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/3 cup (80 ml) extra virgin olive oil
• about 2/3 cup (160 ml) cold water

The chard filling

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup (50 g) long or medium grain white rice
• 2 lb (900 g) Swiss chard
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
• 1 large onion
• 1 clove garlic
• 1/2 cup flat leaf parsley
• 3 large eggs
• 1 cup (80 g) finely grated Parmesan
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 3/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Assembling and baking

Ingredients

• 1 large egg yolk

More from Monaco