Stocafi takes its name from stockfish, cod that has been dried in the cold winds of the far north until it is as hard as a plank of wood. Traders carried it south centuries ago, and the ports of the Riviera, a long way from Norway and very close to tomatoes, did the obvious thing. In Monaco it became the traditional Friday lunch, slow cooked with wine, a little brandy, olives and herbs until the fish turns tender and the sauce turns glossy.

It asks for patience rather than skill: the fish soaks for a day or two, then simmers quietly while you get on with other things. Monaco is the slowest race on the calendar, so a dish that refuses to be hurried feels entirely in keeping.

Soaking and poaching the cod

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lb (700 g) thick salt cod
• plenty cold water
• 1 bay leaf

The tomato and wine braise

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup (60 ml) extra virgin olive oil
• 2 medium onions
• 1 red bell pepper
• 1 celery stalk
• 4 cloves garlic
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) brandy or cognac
• 1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine
• 1 can (28 oz / 800 g) whole peeled tomatoes
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 bouquet garni
• 1 lb (450 g) waxy potatoes
• 1 cup (150 g) Niçoise olives
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• to taste salt
• 1 small handful flat leaf parsley

More from Monaco