Monaco · Regional favorite

Sardines farcies aux blettes et aux moules

Sardines stuffed with Swiss chard and mussels

Butterflied fresh sardines filled with a garlicky stuffing of Swiss chard, chopped mussels, Parmesan and soft breadcrumbs, then baked under a crisp, oily crumb until the edges sizzle.

Sardines farcies aux blettes et aux moules

Long before its harbor filled with yachts, Monaco cooked from the sea, and small oily fish such as sardines and anchovies were the everyday catch of the whole Riviera. Monegasque cooks stuffed them with what the garden and the shore gave them: blettes, the Swiss chard that turns up all through the Principality's cooking, from barbagiuan to the tourte de blettes, and mussels. Sardines stuffed with chard and mussels still appear on lists of Monaco's traditional dishes, alongside stocafi and the other seafood specialties of the port.

The idea is thrifty and very clever. Each sardine is opened flat like a book, the backbone pulled out, and a spoonful of soft green stuffing spread inside. A blanket of breadcrumbs and olive oil goes on top, and twenty minutes in a hot oven turns the fish silky and the crumb crisp. It is a dish of the Riviera at its most unpretentious, which, a few streets from the most glamorous harbor in motor racing, is a quietly radical choice.

The mussels

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The chard stuffing

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Butterflying and baking the sardines

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