Monaco · Trackside classic

Pissaladière

Onion, anchovy and olive flatbread

A soft olive oil bread spread thick with slow cooked sweet onions, crossed with anchovies and dotted with black olives, sold by the square along the Riviera.

Pissaladière

Every bakery between Nice and the Italian border sells pissaladière by the slab, and Monaco is no exception. It is a pizza that has never met a tomato: a thin, focaccia like dough under a deep layer of onions cooked down so slowly they turn sweet and jammy, finished with a lattice of anchovies and a small black olive set in each diamond. The name comes from pissalat, a salty fish paste the old Niçois cooks spread over the onions.

It is eaten warm or at room temperature, which makes it the perfect thing to carry to a balcony above the harbor and eat while the cars go by. The onions take their time; that is the entire secret, and also the entire recipe.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the flour, yeast and salt together in the large bowl. Add the warm water and olive oil and stir with a wooden spoon until no dry flour remains.
  2. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter and knead for 6 to 8 minutes: push it away with the heel of your hand, fold it back, turn it a quarter turn and repeat. Add a little flour only if it sticks badly.
  3. Rub the inside of the bowl with 1 teaspoon oil, put the dough in, turn it once to coat and cover with the towel or plastic wrap. Leave in a warm place for about 1 hour.

The melted onions

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oil in the large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, salt, thyme and bay leaf and stir to coat. Cover with the lid and cook for 10 minutes, stirring twice, so they steam and collapse.
  2. Remove the lid, turn the heat to medium low and cook for 30 to 35 minutes more, stirring every 5 minutes. If they start to brown at the edges or stick, add 2 tablespoons water and lower the heat. Add the garlic and pepper for the last 5 minutes.
  3. Remove the thyme stems and bay leaf and let the onions cool for 10 minutes.

Assembling and baking

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C) with a rack in the lower third. Line the baking sheet with parchment.
  2. Tip the risen dough onto the parchment. Press and stretch it out with your fingertips into a rectangle about 10 by 14 inches (25 by 35 cm) and about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. If it springs back, leave it for 5 minutes and try again.
  3. Spread the onions evenly over the dough, leaving a 1/2 inch (1 cm) border. Lay the anchovy fillets on top in diagonal lines one way, then the other, to make a diamond lattice. Put an olive in the middle of each diamond. Drizzle with the oil.
  4. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, turning the sheet around halfway.

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