Long before the casino, Monaco and its neighbor Menton were lemon country. The Romans bought the principality's lemons and olive oil, and Menton's lemons, grown a few minutes up the coast, are so prized for their fragrance and gentle acidity that they now carry a protected name. Citronnade is what the region does with them on a hot day: not fizzy lemonade but a still, cold, bright drink, sweetened with a syrup in which the zest has been steeped.

The syrup is the clever part. The oils in the peel carry most of a lemon's perfume, so infusing them in warm sugar water gives a drink that smells of the whole fruit, not just its juice. It is the ideal thing to have in the fridge on race day, when the sun bounces off the harbor and the grandstands start to glow.

The lemon zest syrup

Ingredients

• 3 unwaxed lemons
• 2/3 cup (130 g) sugar
• 2/3 cup (160 ml) water

Method

1. Use the vegetable peeler to remove the yellow peel from 3 lemons in long strips, pressing lightly so you take only the yellow layer and as little white pith as possible.
2. Put the sugar and water in the small saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves completely, about 2 to 3 minutes. Bring just to a simmer, then turn off the heat.
3. Drop the zest strips into the hot syrup, cover and leave to steep until completely cool, about 30 minutes, or overnight in the fridge for a stronger flavor.

The citronnade

Ingredients

• 6 lemons
• 5 cups (1.2 liters) cold still water
• 1/2 teaspoon orange blossom water
• 1 small handful fresh mint sprigs
• 1 lemon
• plenty ice cubes

Method

1. Halve the 6 lemons and squeeze them with the juicer, or by twisting a fork inside each half over a bowl. Pour the juice through the sieve to catch the seeds.
2. Strain the cooled syrup into the pitcher and discard the zest. Add the lemon juice, cold water and orange blossom water, and stir well.
3. Taste it. If too sharp, add a little more sugar dissolved in a tablespoon of warm water; if too sweet, add a squeeze more lemon juice or a splash of water.
4. Add the mint sprigs and lemon slices to the pitcher, bruising the mint between your hands first to release its scent. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

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