Monaco · Signature dish

Barbagiuan

Swiss chard and ricotta fritters

Crisp golden fritters stuffed with Swiss chard, ricotta and Parmesan: the bite size pastry Monaco calls its national dish.

Barbagiuan

Barbagiuan means Uncle John in Monégasque, and local legend credits an uncle who had filled his ravioli, found himself without a sauce, and fried them instead. Whatever John's reasons, the principality has never looked back. These little parcels of thin olive oil pastry wrapped around chard, ricotta and Parmesan sit in every bakery window and market stall, and on the 19th of November, Monaco's National Day, they are very nearly compulsory.

They are made for standing up with a drink in your other hand, which in Monte Carlo on race weekend describes most of the population. Make a big batch, keep them warm in a low oven, and watch them leave the plate faster than a car leaves the tunnel.

The olive oil pastry

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the flour and salt in the large bowl and stir. Make a hollow in the middle with your fist. Crack the egg into it and add the olive oil. Stir with a fork, drawing the flour in from the sides, and add the water a little at a time until a shaggy dough forms. You may not need all the water.
  2. Tip the dough onto a clean counter. Knead it: push it away from you with the heel of your hand, fold it back over itself, turn it a quarter turn and repeat. Keep going for 5 minutes. If it sticks to your hands, dust with a pinch of flour; if it cracks, wet your hands and keep kneading.
  3. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and leave it on the counter for 30 minutes. Resting relaxes the dough so it rolls out thin without shrinking back.

The chard and ricotta filling

Ingredients

Method

  1. Wash the chard well in a sink of cold water and shake it dry. Cut the thick stems away from the leaves. Chop the stems into very small pieces, about 1/4 inch (5 mm). Pile up the leaves and chop them into thin strips, then chop across them a few times.
  2. Heat the olive oil in the skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and the chard stems and cook, stirring often, for 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute more.
  3. Add the chopped chard leaves, a handful at a time, stirring each batch until it collapses before adding the next. Cook for about 5 minutes in all, until the pan looks fairly dry.
  4. Tip the chard into the colander and let it cool for 10 minutes. Then pile it into the middle of the clean kitchen towel, gather up the corners and twist hard over the sink to squeeze out the liquid.
  5. Put the chard in a bowl and break it up with a fork. Add the ricotta, Parmesan, marjoram, salt and pepper and mix well. Taste a little now, before adding the egg, and add more salt if it tastes flat. Then stir in the beaten egg.

Shaping and frying

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cut the dough in half and keep one half wrapped. Dust the counter and rolling pin lightly with flour. Roll the dough out, turning it a quarter turn after every few rolls so it stays round, until it is very thin, about 1/16 inch (2 mm).
  2. Cut out circles with the cutter or glass. Put a heaped teaspoon of filling in the center of each circle. Dip a finger in the water and run it around half of the edge.
  3. Fold the circle over to make a half moon, then press the edges firmly with your fingertips, pushing out any air as you go. Press the edge again with the back of a fork to seal and decorate it. Repeat with the rest of the dough, rerolling the scraps once. Lay the finished parcels on a floured plate, not touching.
  4. Pour the oil into the heavy pot to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm), leaving at least 2 inches (5 cm) of space above it. Clip on the thermometer and heat over medium heat to 350°F (175°C). This takes about 10 minutes.
  5. Lower 5 or 6 parcels into the oil with the slotted spoon, gently, so the oil does not splash. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes, turning them once halfway, until puffed and deep golden. Lift them out onto the paper towels. Let the oil come back to 350°F (175°C) before the next batch; adjust the heat to keep it between 340°F and 360°F (170°C and 180°C).

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