On the Pacific coast of Baja California, and above all in the port city of Ensenada, the fish taco is a way of life. Stands fry strips of the morning's catch in a light batter and fold them into small corn tortillas, then step back and let you dress your own from a row of bowls: shredded cabbage, pico de gallo, creamy sauce, salsas of every heat, wedges of lime. The style travelled north across the border long ago and became a California institution, but its home is on the Baja coast.

The pleasure is all in the contrast: hot, crunchy fish against cold, crisp cabbage, rich crema against sharp lime and the clean bite of raw onion and chili. None of it is difficult, but it rewards a little organization, with every topping ready before the oil goes on. Then the fish is fried and eaten within minutes, ideally standing up, which also happens to be the best way to eat in a grandstand on Grand Prix weekend.

Pico de gallo

Ingredients

• 3 ripe plum tomatoes
• 1/2 small white onion
• 1 serrano chili
• 1/4 cup (10 g) cilantro leaves
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) fresh lime juice
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt

Method

1. Put the tomato, onion, chili and cilantro in a bowl. Add the lime juice and salt and stir gently. Leave for at least 10 minutes so the flavors come together, then taste and add more salt or lime if needed.

Lime crema and cabbage

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (120 ml) Mexican crema or sour cream
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
• 1 lime
• 1 to 2 teaspoons hot sauce or chipotle in adobo sauce
• a pinch fine salt
• 3 cups (210 g) green cabbage

Method

1. Whisk the crema, mayonnaise, lime zest, lime juice, hot sauce if using and salt in a bowl until smooth. Add a teaspoon of water if it is too thick to drizzle. Chill until needed.
2. Put the shredded cabbage in a bowl of iced water for 10 minutes, then drain well and pat dry in a clean towel.

The battered fish

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lb (680 g) firm white fish fillets
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 cup (125 g) all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon yellow mustard powder
• 1 cup (240 ml) very cold light lager
• 6 cups (1.4 liters) neutral frying oil

Method

1. Lay the fish strips on paper towels, pat them very dry on all sides and sprinkle with half the salt. Put the 1/4 cup of dusting flour on a plate.
2. Pour the oil into the heavy pot, clip on the thermometer and heat over medium high heat to 375°F (190°C). This takes about 10 minutes.
3. While the oil heats, whisk the cup of flour, baking powder, oregano, garlic powder, mustard powder and the remaining salt in a bowl. Pour in the cold lager and whisk just until smooth. A few small lumps are fine.
4. Roll a few strips of fish in the dusting flour and shake off the excess, then dip them in the batter and lift out with tongs, letting the extra drip back into the bowl for a couple of seconds.
5. Lower the strips into the oil one at a time, away from you, laying them in rather than dropping them. Fry 4 or 5 at a time for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once, then lift onto the rack and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Let the oil come back to 375°F (190°C) before each new batch.

Tortillas and assembly

Ingredients

• 12 small corn tortillas
• 2 limes
• to taste salsa roja or hot sauce

Method

1. Heat the griddle or dry pan over medium high heat. Warm each tortilla for about 30 seconds per side, then stack them inside the folded kitchen towel to keep warm and soft. Do this while the last batch of fish fries, or just before.
2. For each taco, use one tortilla (or two stacked, as many stands do, for strength). Lay a piece of fish down the middle, top with a handful of cabbage, a spoonful of pico de gallo and a drizzle of lime crema. Serve with lime wedges and salsa so everyone can finish their own.

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