Mexico · Signature dish

Tacos al pastor

Chili marinated pork tacos with pineapple

Chili and achiote marinated pork, charred at the edges, piled onto warm corn tortillas with roasted pineapple, onion, cilantro and a sharp green salsa.

Tacos al pastor

Al pastor is Mexico City's taco. It descends from the spit roasted lamb that Lebanese immigrants brought to Mexico in the early twentieth century; Mexican cooks swapped in pork, painted it red with chilies and achiote, crowned the spit with a pineapple, and a capital fell in love. At night the taquerías carve it in thin shavings straight into the tortilla, flicking a sliver of pineapple on top with a skill that looks easy and is not.

Few of us own a vertical spit, so this version uses thin slices and a very hot oven, then a quick sear in a pan for the crisp edges that make it al pastor. Tacos are eaten standing, two or three at a time, which makes them the natural fuel for a race at the Autódromo Hermanos Rodríguez.

The marinated pork

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cut the stems off the dried chilies, slit them open and shake out the seeds. Heat the dry skillet over medium heat and press the chilies flat onto it for 10 to 15 seconds per side.
  2. Put the toasted chilies in a bowl, cover with very hot water and leave for 20 minutes. Drain and discard the water.
  3. Blend the soaked chilies, achiote paste, pineapple juice, vinegar, garlic, oregano, cumin, cloves, salt and sugar until completely smooth, about 1 minute.
  4. Slice the pork across the grain into thin slices, about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Do not trim off all the fat; some keeps it juicy.
  5. Put the pork in the large bowl, pour over the marinade and massage it into every slice with gloved hands. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
  6. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C) with racks in the upper and lower thirds. Lay the slices flat and slightly overlapping on the two lined baking sheets, like roof tiles. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, swapping the trays halfway.
  7. Chop the roasted pork into small pieces, about 1/2 inch (1 cm). Heat the oil in the cast iron skillet over high heat and sear the pork in two batches, without stirring for the first minute, then tossing, for 3 to 4 minutes per batch.

Roasted pineapple

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the pork roasts, lay the pineapple slices on a corner of one of the trays for the last 15 minutes, or sear them in the hot skillet for 2 minutes per side before the pork. Chop into small pieces.

Quick salsa verde

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the tomatillos and serranos in a small pan, cover with water and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes.
  2. Lift them out and blend with the garlic, cilantro, salt and 2 tablespoons of the cooking water until fairly smooth. Taste for salt.

Tortillas and toppings

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat a dry skillet over medium high heat. Warm each tortilla for about 30 seconds per side, then stack them inside a folded kitchen towel to keep them soft and warm.
  2. Toss the onion and cilantro together in a small bowl.

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