Mexico · Sweet finish

Pan de muerto

Day of the Dead sweet bread with orange blossom and anise

A soft, buttery round loaf scented with orange zest, orange blossom water and anise, crossed with dough bones, brushed with butter and rolled in sugar.

Pan de muerto

In the weeks around the first and second of November, when Mexico celebrates Día de Muertos, the Day of the Dead, bakeries across the country stack their shelves with pan de muerto. It is a rich, soft bread, close in spirit to brioche, perfumed with orange and anise, and shaped into a dome topped with strips of dough rolled to look like bones, with a small ball in the middle for the skull. The bones stand for those who have died and the round loaf for the circle of life, and the bread is set on family altars called ofrendas beside photographs, marigolds and candles, as well as being eaten with great enthusiasm by the living.

It is a joyful bread rather than a solemn one, and regional versions are counted in the hundreds. The Mexico City Grand Prix usually falls in late October or early November, right in pan de muerto season, so the grandstands and the bakeries are full at the same time. Torn into pieces and dunked in hot chocolate or café de olla, it is the most delicious way to remember the people who first took you to the races.

The dough

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Shaping and baking

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Butter and sugar coating

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